BY JANET STEINBERG

“Iceland is one of the most beautiful countries in the
world…”

Julie Christie, actor

They
shouldn’t call Iceland “Iceland”.

Once
thought to be a cold barren place sans people, this Arctic land has no snow and
ice in the summer.  Berries, vegetables and flowers grow in many places
and the sun shines on the entire region for at least part of the day from March
to September.  That is, unless it rains.  At the onset of summer, the
sun never sets and white nights illuminate the annual June 23rd golf tournament
which begins at midnight.     

The
misnomer of this Scandinavian island dates back more than a millenium (874 AD)
to Ingolfur Arnarson, a Norwegian Viking frequently credited with discovering
the island. By naming it Iceland, he hoped to discourage future voyagers
from settling on this green and appealing island.  Throughout the
centuries, unsuccessful attempts have been made to rename the country Iceland,
just 625-miles west of Norway, is a craggy land of fire and ice…where steam
and snow are side by side…where erupting volcanoes, boiling geysers and
bubbling hot springs lie next to glistening glaciers and ice fields.  This
land of Europe’s largest waterfalls is etched with craters of slumbering volcanoes
that pockmark an eerie landscape so lunar-like that America’s moon-mission
astronauts trained there. Known as “The Land of the Midnight
Sun,” Iceland, a country the size of the state of Ohoi, has a total
population of appproximately 323,000. 
WELCOME
TO ICELAND



Iceland’s
capital of Reykjavik (meaning Smoky Bay) is often called “The
Smokeless City” because it is heated by geothermal energy in the form of
boiling water piped directly from natural hot springs.  Perlan (The
Pearl), a geothermal water storage tank, is a domed architectural wonder that
houses a restaurant.

PERLAN
(THE PEARL)

Greater
Reykjavik, the heart and center of the Icelandic nation, contains approximately
one-half the population of the entire country.  Picturesque homes, in a
riot of gay colors, surround the Arctic Tern-inhabited lake in the center of
the city.  The bustling harbor, the historic old town huddling nearby, and
the modern new town, are all encircled by mountains for which the people feel
an intimate affection.



DOWNTOWN
REYKJAVIK


Reykjavik
(pronounced rake-ya-vek) is the most northern capital in the world.  In
this city of civilized tastes, there are two symphony orchestras, the Icelandic
Opera House, a major sports center, art galleries, the National
Museum
exhibiting artifacts of yesteryear, the Nordic House Cultural
Centre
, and Hallgrimskirkja Church that offers glorious views of the
city and a glacier at the other end of Faxafloi Bay. 

This
Scandinavian city has a standard of living as high as any in continental
Europe.  There are a wide variety of hotels in Reykjavik.  Iceland is
as much the home of magnificent cuisine as magnificent scenery.  Icelandic
menus offer lamb in all its variations and fish in countless
permutations.  Traditional gravlax (raw salmon and chopped dill)
tastes even better as you gaze at the pink streaks of a midnight sun.  The
continental cuisine should be preceded by a glass of Brennivin, Iceland’s
“Black Death.”     

Laekjarbrekka,
situated in the heart of Reykjavik in a restored 1834 house, offers a
three-course Icelandic feast that might include the likes of hardfiskur (dried
fish); hakrl (ripened shark meat); or hangikjot (smoked lamb).  Skyr,
the uniquely Icelandic dairy product is a delightful dessert.  So, gjorid
svo ve!
  (Help yourselves!)

ICELANDIC
BUFFET


Anyone
visiting Iceland must take a trip into the countryside.  That is the real
Iceland, a land filled with natural beauty and dramatic contrasts. 
The tour included Gullfoss (“Golden Falls”) Waterfall, crested by
a vivid rainbow when the sun peaked through, and the town of Hveragerdi,
with its huge greenhouses heated by thermal springs.  The Garden of
Eden
offered a good shopping spot as well as a greenhouse. 
GULLFOSS
WATERFALL

My
Iceland tour also included Geysir Park, (geysir is the correct
Icelandic spelling) with its Strokkur (“The Churn”) geyser
that erupts every eight minutes sending boiling columns of water 100-feet
skyward. 

STROGET
(STROKKUR) GEYSIR


At Thingvellir
National Park, 
a hallowed spot where the Vikings first met in
parliament in 930 AD, we walked through the canyon that is the meeting place of
two of the earth’s tectonic plates.  A stop was also made at Kerio
Crater
, an inactive volcano crater that houses a sparkling lake. 
KERIO
CRATER


The Westman
Islands 
are the single most dramatic locale in
Iceland.  There you will see the pitch-black mass of Eldfell, the
volcano that erupted in January 1973 and made world headlines when the town of
Vestmannaeyjar had to be evacuated.  From 700-feet above sea level, you
look down on the rebuilt town that has piped into the slopes of the volcano to
extract steam for heating homes and businesses 

You
will also see the tall basalt cliffs inhabited by puffin birds, and Iceland’s
greatest fishing harbor that was almost closed off by lava from the
eruption.  Only ingenious high pressure hosing of seawater onto the
advancing lava prevented the harbor from being destroyed.  As you walk
over jagged boulders of hardened lava, you will spot a tiny splash of color
amidst the rubble.  The tiny clumps of pink and white blooms are called
lava flowers.     

PUFFIN
BIRDS, LIKE THE ONE IN THIS GIFT SHOP, INHABIT THE WESTMAN ISLANDS


The
consummate shopper will not leave Iceland without a supply of naturally
waterproofed Icelandic woolens, Icelandic lumpfish caviar, and the
unusual Ostur Myur cheese.  The latter looks like a
bar of brown soap and tastes somewhere between peanut butter and
chocolate.  Fans of Bjork, Iceland’s most revered lady of pop, will
want to take home Gling Glo, an Icelandic album recorded in her
pre-superstar days.


PRETTY
YOUNG TOURIST MODELS ICELANDIC WOOL SWEATER


A
trip to Iceland, a fantasyland of fire and ice will alter any preconceived
notion you might have had about the country.  Although perpetual darkness
prevails during Iceland’s winters, in summer there is no night.  Golfers
putt, and photographers snap, beyond the bewitching hour.  Bathers swim in
pools heated by thermal pools and the country is ablaze with colorful
blooms. 
HOTEL
POOLS ARE HEATED BY THERMAL POOLS
 
   


One
visit to this verdant Nordic nation just below the Arctic Circle will convince
you…they shouldn’t call Iceland, ‘Iceland’.
 

JANET STEINBERG is an
award-winning Travel Writer, International Travel Consultant
and winner of 40
national Travel Writing Awards.