BY JANET STEINBERG
Sitka, on Baranof Island, is located on the outer coast of
Alaska’s Inside Passage. Like most Southeast Alaska
communities, Sitka is accessible only by air or by sea. Most
visitors arrive in Sitka on a cruise ship.
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| ARRIVING IN SITKA BY SEA |
Disembarking from my cruise
ship I was welcomed by a “Little Drook”, appropriately adorned in his cossack costume. The drook,
(Russian word for friend) is the symbol of the Sitka Visitors’
Bureau. This reminder of Russian-heritage warmly welcomes the
visitor to a splendid bit of isolation—Sitka, the oldest town in
southeastern Alaska.
ship I was welcomed by a “Little Drook”, appropriately adorned in his cossack costume. The drook,
(Russian word for friend) is the symbol of the Sitka Visitors’
Bureau. This reminder of Russian-heritage warmly welcomes the
visitor to a splendid bit of isolation—Sitka, the oldest town in
southeastern Alaska.
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| WELCOME TO SITKA |
Sitka, an Indian word meaning “by
the sea”, is one of Alaska’s most scenic, most historic, and
most popular cities. Once known as the “Paris of
the Pacific”, Sitka was the port where the Russians discovered Alaska
in 1741. The first trading ships of
the Russian-American empire found protection within Sitka’s sheltered
offshore waters.
the sea”, is one of Alaska’s most scenic, most historic, and
most popular cities. Once known as the “Paris of
the Pacific”, Sitka was the port where the Russians discovered Alaska
in 1741. The first trading ships of
the Russian-American empire found protection within Sitka’s sheltered
offshore waters.
Russian explorers once described Sitka
as an area “near the entrance of a large sound surrounded by
forested mountains beneath the towering majesty of a cone-shaped
peak.” The description still fits. For decades to
follow, Sitka served as the capital of Russian-America.
as an area “near the entrance of a large sound surrounded by
forested mountains beneath the towering majesty of a cone-shaped
peak.” The description still fits. For decades to
follow, Sitka served as the capital of Russian-America.
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| SURROUNDED BY FORESTED MOUNTAINS BENEATH A CONE-SHAPED PEAK |
“Seward’s Folly”, the
misnomer given to America’s purchase of Alaska, should have been
labeled “The Czar’s Folly”. In 1867, all of fur,
gold and oil-rich Alaska was purchased from Russia for $7.2 million
dollars. By comparison, a rustic hotel, in downtown Sitka, was completed
in the late 1970’s at a cost of $7.5 million…$300,000 more than the
total purchase price of the entire state of Alaska. Now that’s
inflation!
misnomer given to America’s purchase of Alaska, should have been
labeled “The Czar’s Folly”. In 1867, all of fur,
gold and oil-rich Alaska was purchased from Russia for $7.2 million
dollars. By comparison, a rustic hotel, in downtown Sitka, was completed
in the late 1970’s at a cost of $7.5 million…$300,000 more than the
total purchase price of the entire state of Alaska. Now that’s
inflation!
Try to catch a performance of
the New Archangel Russian Dancers who take their name from Sitka’s
designation as the capital of Russian America. More than a
hundred years ago, Sitka was New Archangel, capital of Russian
America. Taking their name from history, the New Archangel
Dancers are preserving Sitka’s heritage through the art of dance.
the New Archangel Russian Dancers who take their name from Sitka’s
designation as the capital of Russian America. More than a
hundred years ago, Sitka was New Archangel, capital of Russian
America. Taking their name from history, the New Archangel
Dancers are preserving Sitka’s heritage through the art of dance.
A group of colorfully costumed local
women whirl through the intricate steps of authentic Russian folk
dances from a repertoire that includes dances representing Russia and
surrounding areas. Their costumes, which lend both color
and authenticity to this remarkable entertainment, include the vibrant
floral prints of Russia, the plaids and braids of the Ukraine, the
Georgian gowns and the earth tones of Armenian folk wear.
women whirl through the intricate steps of authentic Russian folk
dances from a repertoire that includes dances representing Russia and
surrounding areas. Their costumes, which lend both color
and authenticity to this remarkable entertainment, include the vibrant
floral prints of Russia, the plaids and braids of the Ukraine, the
Georgian gowns and the earth tones of Armenian folk wear.
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|
NEW ARCHANGEL FOLK DANCERS
|
A visit to the Alaska Raptor
Rehabilitation Center is very interesting. The Alaska
Raptor Rehabilitation Center is the largest wild bird treatment
center in Alaska. This unique facility is a wildlife hospital,
dedicated to public education, wildlife rehabilitation and
research.
Rehabilitation Center is very interesting. The Alaska
Raptor Rehabilitation Center is the largest wild bird treatment
center in Alaska. This unique facility is a wildlife hospital,
dedicated to public education, wildlife rehabilitation and
research.
The Raptor Center offers close-up
encounters with local wildlife. The Center combines
veterinary expertise and volunteer efforts to nurse back to health
hundreds of injured or sick birds of prey including bald eagles. While
the center makes every effort to return the raptors back to the wild,
a few never recover flight and remain as Raptors-in-Residence, a
part of the center’s education program.
encounters with local wildlife. The Center combines
veterinary expertise and volunteer efforts to nurse back to health
hundreds of injured or sick birds of prey including bald eagles. While
the center makes every effort to return the raptors back to the wild,
a few never recover flight and remain as Raptors-in-Residence, a
part of the center’s education program.
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|
CLOSE-UP
ENCOUNTER WITH A BALD EAGLE AT THE RAPTOR CENTER |
St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox
Cathedral, a landmark of the days of the Russian founder Alexander
Baranof, was restored in 1976 after a fire destroyed the
original church in January, 1966. Beneath its carrot-spire
and onion-dome, this gray frame historic site houses a
priceless collection of icons and works of art which were saved from
the fire. One of the world’s finest collections of Russian
Orthodox ecclesiastical art treasures are on view in the Cathedral.
Cathedral, a landmark of the days of the Russian founder Alexander
Baranof, was restored in 1976 after a fire destroyed the
original church in January, 1966. Beneath its carrot-spire
and onion-dome, this gray frame historic site houses a
priceless collection of icons and works of art which were saved from
the fire. One of the world’s finest collections of Russian
Orthodox ecclesiastical art treasures are on view in the Cathedral.
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|
ST
MICHAEL’S RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL |
Dr. Sheldon Jackson’s fine
collection of native Alaskan artifacts are housed in the Sheldon
Jackson Museum, the first cement structure built in Alaska (1895).
The museum features Russian relics, historical documents and an outstanding
display of Alaskan artifacts.
collection of native Alaskan artifacts are housed in the Sheldon
Jackson Museum, the first cement structure built in Alaska (1895).
The museum features Russian relics, historical documents and an outstanding
display of Alaskan artifacts.
You can taste the flavor of the Gold
Rush in The Pioneers’ Home, fronted by a 13-foot statue
of The Prospector. The Prospector, a 13-foot statue molded
from three tons of clay and covered in bronze, commemorates the
old gold miner. An old pioneer, William
“Skagway Bill” Fonda, served as the model for the
statue.
Rush in The Pioneers’ Home, fronted by a 13-foot statue
of The Prospector. The Prospector, a 13-foot statue molded
from three tons of clay and covered in bronze, commemorates the
old gold miner. An old pioneer, William
“Skagway Bill” Fonda, served as the model for the
statue.
The Pioneers’ Home, and its native
Alaskan gardens, are located on the site of the old Russian parade
grounds overlooking the harbor It is interesting to talk
with the residents, rugged old “sourdoughs” who pioneered this
last frontier. On one side of the home is the
old Russian Cemetery, dominated by a replica of an old Russian
Blockhouse. Some of the oldest names in Sitka
history are on the crumbling “Russian grave markers. There
is a gift shop on the lower level of the Home stocked with the handicraft
of these senior citizens of our 49th state.
Alaskan gardens, are located on the site of the old Russian parade
grounds overlooking the harbor It is interesting to talk
with the residents, rugged old “sourdoughs” who pioneered this
last frontier. On one side of the home is the
old Russian Cemetery, dominated by a replica of an old Russian
Blockhouse. Some of the oldest names in Sitka
history are on the crumbling “Russian grave markers. There
is a gift shop on the lower level of the Home stocked with the handicraft
of these senior citizens of our 49th state.
To the other side is Castle Hill,
commanding a sweeping view of the city and Sitka Sound. This
historic land was the original site of the early stronghold of the
Kiksadi Clan of the Tlingit Indians. It was then followed by a
succession of Russian
“castles”. The last one, “Baranof’s
Castle”, was built in 1836 and burned in 1894. The
old Russian cannons are still emplaced on this site where the flag of
Czarist Russia gave way to the Stars and Stripes on October 18, 1867.
It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1962.
commanding a sweeping view of the city and Sitka Sound. This
historic land was the original site of the early stronghold of the
Kiksadi Clan of the Tlingit Indians. It was then followed by a
succession of Russian
“castles”. The last one, “Baranof’s
Castle”, was built in 1836 and burned in 1894. The
old Russian cannons are still emplaced on this site where the flag of
Czarist Russia gave way to the Stars and Stripes on October 18, 1867.
It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1962.
Sitka National Historical
Park, or Totem Park, protects the Indian Fort site and
commemorates the 1804 Battle of Alaska between the Russians and the
Tlingit Indians. Stroll along the original spruce and
hemlock needle-padded trails leading to the site and view one of the
finest collections of totem poles in the world. Among
them is the Fog Woman, tallest authentic totem in the
world.
Park, or Totem Park, protects the Indian Fort site and
commemorates the 1804 Battle of Alaska between the Russians and the
Tlingit Indians. Stroll along the original spruce and
hemlock needle-padded trails leading to the site and view one of the
finest collections of totem poles in the world. Among
them is the Fog Woman, tallest authentic totem in the
world.
St. Peter’s By-The-Sea Episcopal
Church is of special note to Jewish visitors because of the Star
of David in the round glass window in the front of
the church. One version of the window story is that a
cross was ordered for the window when the church was built some 100
years ago. When the window finally arrived in Alaska, 3 years after
it was ordered, it mistakenly had a Star of David in its
center. The congregants were so happy to have an unbroken
window that they decided to keep it as it was.
Church is of special note to Jewish visitors because of the Star
of David in the round glass window in the front of
the church. One version of the window story is that a
cross was ordered for the window when the church was built some 100
years ago. When the window finally arrived in Alaska, 3 years after
it was ordered, it mistakenly had a Star of David in its
center. The congregants were so happy to have an unbroken
window that they decided to keep it as it was.
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ST PETER’S BY-THE-SEA-EPISCOPAL CHURCH
|
In Sitka, the picture-postcard port
that is a living reminder of the days of Imperial Russia’s reign
over Alaska, you’ll lose yourself in the centuries-old tradition of both
the Russians and the Tlingit Indians. In every nook
and cranny of this history-filled port of call, there are
reminders of its rich and vivid past.
that is a living reminder of the days of Imperial Russia’s reign
over Alaska, you’ll lose yourself in the centuries-old tradition of both
the Russians and the Tlingit Indians. In every nook
and cranny of this history-filled port of call, there are
reminders of its rich and vivid past.
If only the rainbow-colored totem
poles, so intricately carved by the Tlingit Indians, could
talk. Who knows what they could possibly tell us?
poles, so intricately carved by the Tlingit Indians, could
talk. Who knows what they could possibly tell us?
JANET STEINBERG is an
award-winning Travel Writer and a Travel Consultant affiliated with
The Travel Authority, Mariemont/Cincinnati, Ohio office.
award-winning Travel Writer and a Travel Consultant affiliated with
The Travel Authority, Mariemont/Cincinnati, Ohio office.