By Janet Steinberg, Travel Editor
Thanks to “starchitect” Frank Gehry’s
Guggenheim Museum, the former industrial town of Bilbao, Spain, that was once
dubbed the most ugly city in Europe, has had a vibrant rebirth that exceeded
the townsfolk’s wildest imagination. Little wonder that it was one
of the highlights of Silver Whisper’s cruise itinerary from Lisbon, Portugal to
Southampton, England.
Guggenheim Museum, the former industrial town of Bilbao, Spain, that was once
dubbed the most ugly city in Europe, has had a vibrant rebirth that exceeded
the townsfolk’s wildest imagination. Little wonder that it was one
of the highlights of Silver Whisper’s cruise itinerary from Lisbon, Portugal to
Southampton, England.
Our Silversea shore excursion departed the Getxo pier for a scenic
45-minute drive to Bilbao. As we
approached the city we passed through its industrial outskirts and took in the
splendid panoramic view from Mount Artxanda. A lacy iron sculpture crowns the
park from which you have a birdseye view of the Bilbao skyline and a distant
glimpse of the iconic Guggenheim Museum.
Bilbao is linked to the recreational park atop Mount Artxanda by a
funicular.
45-minute drive to Bilbao. As we
approached the city we passed through its industrial outskirts and took in the
splendid panoramic view from Mount Artxanda. A lacy iron sculpture crowns the
park from which you have a birdseye view of the Bilbao skyline and a distant
glimpse of the iconic Guggenheim Museum.
Bilbao is linked to the recreational park atop Mount Artxanda by a
funicular.
 |
|
LACY IRON
SCULPTURE CROWNS PARK ON MOUNT ARTXANDA |
From, Mount
Artxanda, our Silversea shore excursion continued down the city’s main
thoroughfare Gran Via which reflects Bilbao’s 19th-century mining and
industrial prosperity. Upon arrival in
the heart of the city, we proceeded toward the Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art
(Museo Guggenheim) that opened in 1997.
Artxanda, our Silversea shore excursion continued down the city’s main
thoroughfare Gran Via which reflects Bilbao’s 19th-century mining and
industrial prosperity. Upon arrival in
the heart of the city, we proceeded toward the Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art
(Museo Guggenheim) that opened in 1997.
And there
it was! Frank Gehry’s masterpiece in flowing titanium and limestone.
it was! Frank Gehry’s masterpiece in flowing titanium and limestone.
 |
| FRANK GEHRY’S MUSEO GUGGENHEIM |
Built by
renowned architect Frank O. Gehry, the Guggenheim reflects Bilbao’s heritage
with its suggestion of maritime shapes and sails. The building is covered with
over 35,000 titanium tiles and pieces of glass strategically placed to catch
the natural light.
renowned architect Frank O. Gehry, the Guggenheim reflects Bilbao’s heritage
with its suggestion of maritime shapes and sails. The building is covered with
over 35,000 titanium tiles and pieces of glass strategically placed to catch
the natural light.
Gehry, a Pritzker prize-winning architect, told the story of
a German client who had seen a Gehry building in Switzerland. The client said to him “That one was
Wow! Now give us Wow! Wow! Wow! In Bilbao, Frank Gehry’s Museo Guggenheim has
given the world Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow!
a German client who had seen a Gehry building in Switzerland. The client said to him “That one was
Wow! Now give us Wow! Wow! Wow! In Bilbao, Frank Gehry’s Museo Guggenheim has
given the world Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow!
From a distance, the splendid bizarrely shaped $100-million museum looks
like a massive steel sculpture. The
museum’s architect described his building on the banks of the Nervion River as
a ship that has run aground. Others have
likened the silhouette of Bilbao’s Guggenheim to a roller coaster, a mermaid, a
waterfall, a hula girl, and a fish.
like a massive steel sculpture. The
museum’s architect described his building on the banks of the Nervion River as
a ship that has run aground. Others have
likened the silhouette of Bilbao’s Guggenheim to a roller coaster, a mermaid, a
waterfall, a hula girl, and a fish.
Gehry’s
fixation with fish, a form that often appears in his work, dates back to his
childhood upbringing when his grandmother took him to market on Thursdays. “We’d go to the Jewish market,” Gehry said,
“we’d buy a live carp, we’d put it in the bathtub and I would play with this
goddamn fish for a day until the next day, she’d kill it and make gefilte fish.”
fixation with fish, a form that often appears in his work, dates back to his
childhood upbringing when his grandmother took him to market on Thursdays. “We’d go to the Jewish market,” Gehry said,
“we’d buy a live carp, we’d put it in the bathtub and I would play with this
goddamn fish for a day until the next day, she’d kill it and make gefilte fish.”
Puppy,
Jeff Koon’s 1992 floral sculpture standing guard opposite the museum, is the
Guggenheim’s mascot. Constructed of
stainless steel, soil, flowering plants, and an internal irrigation system, this
humongous West Highland White Terrier topiary is literally still growing. Having your picture taken with Puppy is a
must-do in Bilbao.
Jeff Koon’s 1992 floral sculpture standing guard opposite the museum, is the
Guggenheim’s mascot. Constructed of
stainless steel, soil, flowering plants, and an internal irrigation system, this
humongous West Highland White Terrier topiary is literally still growing. Having your picture taken with Puppy is a
must-do in Bilbao.
 |
|
PUPPY/FLORAL SCULPTURE BY JEFFKOONS
|
Maman
is Louise Bourgeois’ huge bronze spider standing in front of the
Guggenheim. Bourgeois said that The
Spider was an ode to her mother who was her best friend. “Like a spider”, she stated, “my mother was a
weaver… spiders are helpful and protective, just like my mother.”
is Louise Bourgeois’ huge bronze spider standing in front of the
Guggenheim. Bourgeois said that The
Spider was an ode to her mother who was her best friend. “Like a spider”, she stated, “my mother was a
weaver… spiders are helpful and protective, just like my mother.”
 |
|
MAMAN/BRONZE SPIDER BY LOUISE
BOURGEOIS |
Also
in front of the museum is Indian-born, British artist Anish Kapoor’s sculpture
of 80 reflective stainless steel spheres. The Guggenheim acquired Kapoor’s
dazzling work of art, named Tall Tree & The Eye, in 2010
for $3.5 million.
in front of the museum is Indian-born, British artist Anish Kapoor’s sculpture
of 80 reflective stainless steel spheres. The Guggenheim acquired Kapoor’s
dazzling work of art, named Tall Tree & The Eye, in 2010
for $3.5 million.
 |
| ANISH KAPOOR’S STAINLESS STEEL SCULPTURE |
In
addition to Frank Gehry, several other renowned architects have left their mark
on Bilbao. In the midst of the city’s Cultural Revolution, even the
subway entrances (“Fosteritos” designed by world-class architect Sir Norman
Foster) are works of art. These dramatically curved glass structures mark
street level entrances to Bilbao’s Metro system.
addition to Frank Gehry, several other renowned architects have left their mark
on Bilbao. In the midst of the city’s Cultural Revolution, even the
subway entrances (“Fosteritos” designed by world-class architect Sir Norman
Foster) are works of art. These dramatically curved glass structures mark
street level entrances to Bilbao’s Metro system.
 |
| CURVED GLASS FOSTERITO MARKS SUBWAY ENTRANCE |
The
Zubizuri Bridge is another architectural masterpiece designed by architect
Santiago Calatrava, The Zubizuri (Basque for “white
bridge“) across Bilbao’s Nervion River, links
the Campo Volantin right bank and Uribitarte left
bank of the river. It offers pedestrians a convenient way to get
from the hotels on one side of the river to the Guggenheim on the other side.
Zubizuri Bridge is another architectural masterpiece designed by architect
Santiago Calatrava, The Zubizuri (Basque for “white
bridge“) across Bilbao’s Nervion River, links
the Campo Volantin right bank and Uribitarte left
bank of the river. It offers pedestrians a convenient way to get
from the hotels on one side of the river to the Guggenheim on the other side.
 |
|
SANTIAGO
CALATRAVA’S ZUBIZURI BRIDGE |
After
leaving the Guggenheim, our tour continued with a drive to the Old Quarter,
or ‘Casco Viejo’, located on the right-bank of the Nervion River.
During the walking tour, we saw the 14th-century Gothic Cathedral, Arriaga Theatre,
Plaza Nueva, the City Hall and many fascinating shops like
Vaiandas de Salamanca where hams hanging from the ceiling are being air-cured
with fat-collecting cones for the drippings.
leaving the Guggenheim, our tour continued with a drive to the Old Quarter,
or ‘Casco Viejo’, located on the right-bank of the Nervion River.
During the walking tour, we saw the 14th-century Gothic Cathedral, Arriaga Theatre,
Plaza Nueva, the City Hall and many fascinating shops like
Vaiandas de Salamanca where hams hanging from the ceiling are being air-cured
with fat-collecting cones for the drippings.
 |
|
JAMON IBERICO (IBERIAN HAM) AT VIANDAS
DE SALAMANCA |
Before returning to the port, the tour culminated
with pintxos and drinks at the Café Kiosko del Arenal.
Pintxos are small snacks usually eaten in bars, traditional in
northern Spain and
especially popular in the Basque
country. Those items called “pintxos” in the
Basque Country are called “tapas” elsewhere in Spain. The
name pintxo, in the Basque language, means spike and these
appetizers take their name from the toothpick that is usually spiked through
them to hold them together.
with pintxos and drinks at the Café Kiosko del Arenal.
Pintxos are small snacks usually eaten in bars, traditional in
northern Spain and
especially popular in the Basque
country. Those items called “pintxos” in the
Basque Country are called “tapas” elsewhere in Spain. The
name pintxo, in the Basque language, means spike and these
appetizers take their name from the toothpick that is usually spiked through
them to hold them together.
Bilbao,
the once-grimy, largest city in Basque country where unidentified objects used
to float down a foul-smelling river, is now a spruced up tourist town rivaling
the likes of Spain’s most popular destinations.
the once-grimy, largest city in Basque country where unidentified objects used
to float down a foul-smelling river, is now a spruced up tourist town rivaling
the likes of Spain’s most popular destinations.
Spanish
Steps…in the right direction.
Steps…in the right direction.
JANET
STEINBERG is the winner of 38 national Travel Writer Awards and
an International Travel Consultant with The Travel Authority in Mariemont,
Ohio.
STEINBERG is the winner of 38 national Travel Writer Awards and
an International Travel Consultant with The Travel Authority in Mariemont,
Ohio.