BY JANET STEINBERG
Looking
back into my childhood, my most treasured memories are those of good ole
summertime Ohio River cruises aboard the majestic Island Queen. For 35-cents,
this grand and stately, green and white, 5-deck side-wheeler traveled ten miles
up river from downtown Cincinnati to Coney Island, the beloved amusement park
that enticed us with its Lost River and Sunlite Pool.
back into my childhood, my most treasured memories are those of good ole
summertime Ohio River cruises aboard the majestic Island Queen. For 35-cents,
this grand and stately, green and white, 5-deck side-wheeler traveled ten miles
up river from downtown Cincinnati to Coney Island, the beloved amusement park
that enticed us with its Lost River and Sunlite Pool.
As
the Island Queen’s huge paddle dipped into the river’s muddy waters, and Homer
Denny’s calliope music rang throughout the boat, I would find myself a secluded
rail on the upper deck and dream my way up a lazy river.
the Island Queen’s huge paddle dipped into the river’s muddy waters, and Homer
Denny’s calliope music rang throughout the boat, I would find myself a secluded
rail on the upper deck and dream my way up a lazy river.
It
was not visions of hot dogs and cotton candy that danced in my pre-pubescent
head, but dreams of excitement brought about by the motion of a river…any
river…a river that endlessly flows backward into time and forward into
adventure…a river that is banked by pyramids or castles or virgin forests…a
river that, decades later, I would explore from the luxury of an ocean liner or
from the intimacy of a floating “boatel”.
was not visions of hot dogs and cotton candy that danced in my pre-pubescent
head, but dreams of excitement brought about by the motion of a river…any
river…a river that endlessly flows backward into time and forward into
adventure…a river that is banked by pyramids or castles or virgin forests…a
river that, decades later, I would explore from the luxury of an ocean liner or
from the intimacy of a floating “boatel”.
Come
on board with me for my idyllic cruises on some of the most exciting and
romantic rivers in the world.
on board with me for my idyllic cruises on some of the most exciting and
romantic rivers in the world.
THE AMAZON RIVER: O
Rio Mar! The River Sea! The world’s largest river, that fires
the imagination of all who dare to dream, dominates the land and the people who
come in contact with it.
Rio Mar! The River Sea! The world’s largest river, that fires
the imagination of all who dare to dream, dominates the land and the people who
come in contact with it.
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|
BRAZILIZIANS
SWIM IN THE MIGHTY MUDDY AMAZON |
The
muddy and mysterious Amazon is a majestic presence. To those with an insatiable
spirit of adventure, it is a strange mixture of primitive and civilized.
The Amazon is a kaleidoscope of mud huts and mini-highrises, dugout canoes and
sleek ocean liners. There are man-eating piranhas that you don’t see and
immense Vitoria Regia water lilies that you do see.
muddy and mysterious Amazon is a majestic presence. To those with an insatiable
spirit of adventure, it is a strange mixture of primitive and civilized.
The Amazon is a kaleidoscope of mud huts and mini-highrises, dugout canoes and
sleek ocean liners. There are man-eating piranhas that you don’t see and
immense Vitoria Regia water lilies that you do see.
 |
| IMMENSE VITORIA REGIA WATER LILIES |
A
foray into the land of tribesmen called Waura and Kuikuro, this1000-mile
voyage of discovery from the mouth of the world’s mightiest river to the port
city of Manaus (at the confluence of the Amazon and Rio Negro), was once
virtually inaccessible to the leisure traveler.
foray into the land of tribesmen called Waura and Kuikuro, this1000-mile
voyage of discovery from the mouth of the world’s mightiest river to the port
city of Manaus (at the confluence of the Amazon and Rio Negro), was once
virtually inaccessible to the leisure traveler.
Cruising
the Amazon, I was able to experience one of nature’s most spectacular
sights. Encontro das Aguas…the Meeting of the Waters. This
rare phenomenon is caused by the sluggish, inky black waters of the Rio Negro
meeting with the fast- flowing, café-au -lait colored waters of the Amazon.
The two rivers, differing in density and speed, flow side by side for nearly
40-miles before they integrate completely.
the Amazon, I was able to experience one of nature’s most spectacular
sights. Encontro das Aguas…the Meeting of the Waters. This
rare phenomenon is caused by the sluggish, inky black waters of the Rio Negro
meeting with the fast- flowing, café-au -lait colored waters of the Amazon.
The two rivers, differing in density and speed, flow side by side for nearly
40-miles before they integrate completely.
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| THE MEETING OF THE WATERS (ENCONTRO DAS AGUAS) |
Traveling
1000 miles up the Amazon River, I came face to face with another world…a world
that gave me a taste of a country as virgin as 16th century
explorers found it, yet as modern as civilization allows it.
1000 miles up the Amazon River, I came face to face with another world…a world
that gave me a taste of a country as virgin as 16th century
explorers found it, yet as modern as civilization allows it.
THE DANUBE RIVER: The beautiful Blue Danube, Europe’s second-longest river, isn’t
blue at all. It is a mocha-green ribbon that entwines itself through the
rolling hills, vineyards, vibrant cities, and quaint hamlets of Europe.
The beautiful Blue Danube…the river of my roots…the river about which my
Austrian-born mother so often spoke…the river about which Strauss wrote a
waltz…offered me a week of unsurpassed relaxation and a dream come true.
blue at all. It is a mocha-green ribbon that entwines itself through the
rolling hills, vineyards, vibrant cities, and quaint hamlets of Europe.
The beautiful Blue Danube…the river of my roots…the river about which my
Austrian-born mother so often spoke…the river about which Strauss wrote a
waltz…offered me a week of unsurpassed relaxation and a dream come true.
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| THE BEAUTIFUL BLUE DANUBE ISN’T BLUE AT ALL |
Prior
to boarding my river vessel in Passau, Germany, I opted for a 3-night
pre-tour in Prague, the Old World capital of the Czech Republic. Laced by
the scenic Vltava River, Prague is one of the world’s most beautiful
cities. Zlata Praha (Golden Prague) has been dubbed “the city of
100 spires”. One memorable day was spent in nearby Terezin, the town that
the Nazis etched forever into the human conscience of the world.
to boarding my river vessel in Passau, Germany, I opted for a 3-night
pre-tour in Prague, the Old World capital of the Czech Republic. Laced by
the scenic Vltava River, Prague is one of the world’s most beautiful
cities. Zlata Praha (Golden Prague) has been dubbed “the city of
100 spires”. One memorable day was spent in nearby Terezin, the town that
the Nazis etched forever into the human conscience of the world.
Negotiating
eleven locks on the Danube, from Passau, Germany to Budapest, Hungary, the
Danube presented a 365-mile journey of great cultural and scenic diversity
across the heart of Eastern Europe.
eleven locks on the Danube, from Passau, Germany to Budapest, Hungary, the
Danube presented a 365-mile journey of great cultural and scenic diversity
across the heart of Eastern Europe.
As
our boat approached Budapest a breathtaking sight appeared before our
eyes. The city of Budapest, gracing both sides of the Danube River, was
ablaze with thousands of lights. Lights outlining the regal bridges;
lights outlining the Neoclassical buildings; lights outlining the grand
monuments. Budapest (pronounced Budapesht) was a veritable fairyland…a
fantasy that Walt Disney might have conjured up.
our boat approached Budapest a breathtaking sight appeared before our
eyes. The city of Budapest, gracing both sides of the Danube River, was
ablaze with thousands of lights. Lights outlining the regal bridges;
lights outlining the Neoclassical buildings; lights outlining the grand
monuments. Budapest (pronounced Budapesht) was a veritable fairyland…a
fantasy that Walt Disney might have conjured up.
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| BUDAPEST GRACES BOTH SIDES OF THE DANUBE RIVER |
Here
I was, one quarter of the way around the world, in an exotic, mysterious city
that had been devastated in WWII and inaccessibly cloistered behind an Iron
Curtain in the last half of the 20th century. Here I was,
watching history being made in a city that was, once again, being rebuilt and
reinvented by its proud people.
I was, one quarter of the way around the world, in an exotic, mysterious city
that had been devastated in WWII and inaccessibly cloistered behind an Iron
Curtain in the last half of the 20th century. Here I was,
watching history being made in a city that was, once again, being rebuilt and
reinvented by its proud people.
THE NILE RIVER:
Whether you begin your Nile cruise in the Egyptian city of Aswan and
sail to Luxor–or sail “up river” (which is actually the
north-to-south direction of the river’s contrarily flowing waters) from Luxor
to Aswan, you’ll be experiencing sights and adventures similar to those of
ancient pharaohs some 4000 years ago.
Whether you begin your Nile cruise in the Egyptian city of Aswan and
sail to Luxor–or sail “up river” (which is actually the
north-to-south direction of the river’s contrarily flowing waters) from Luxor
to Aswan, you’ll be experiencing sights and adventures similar to those of
ancient pharaohs some 4000 years ago.
However,
in lieu of a royal barge powered by muscular Nubian oarsmen, you can glide
along the river in a floating houseboat/hotel complete with swimming pool, bar,
observation lounge and sundeck. In place of sweating fan-bearers, you’ll
need only to adjust the thermostat in your air-conditioned cabin.
in lieu of a royal barge powered by muscular Nubian oarsmen, you can glide
along the river in a floating houseboat/hotel complete with swimming pool, bar,
observation lounge and sundeck. In place of sweating fan-bearers, you’ll
need only to adjust the thermostat in your air-conditioned cabin.
My
Nile cruise began in Aswan, site of the gargantuan dam. Prior to a morning
departure, there was time to explore Aswan’s colorful night market.
Turbaned Egyptian men wearing caftans, smoked hubbly bubbly water pipes while
black-draped peasant women packaged a dried date petal used to make a
delightful drink. Early the next morning, we
sailed from Aswan to Kom Ombo, the site of Egypt’s unique double temple
dedicated to Sobek (the crocodile-headed god) and Haroeris (the falcon- headed
god).
Nile cruise began in Aswan, site of the gargantuan dam. Prior to a morning
departure, there was time to explore Aswan’s colorful night market.
Turbaned Egyptian men wearing caftans, smoked hubbly bubbly water pipes while
black-draped peasant women packaged a dried date petal used to make a
delightful drink. Early the next morning, we
sailed from Aswan to Kom Ombo, the site of Egypt’s unique double temple
dedicated to Sobek (the crocodile-headed god) and Haroeris (the falcon- headed
god).
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| HORSE-DRAWN CARRIAGE RIDE IN EDFU |
At
Edfu, horse-drawn carriages clip-clopped us to the Edfu Temple completed in 57
B.C. and considered the best preserved temple in Egypt. Strolling the
streets of Esna proved more fascinating than the temple itself. The local
laundry leaves something to be desired. Ironing men used their hands,
feet and saliva to aid their chore.
Edfu, horse-drawn carriages clip-clopped us to the Edfu Temple completed in 57
B.C. and considered the best preserved temple in Egypt. Strolling the
streets of Esna proved more fascinating than the temple itself. The local
laundry leaves something to be desired. Ironing men used their hands,
feet and saliva to aid their chore.
Continuing
through the lock of the Esna Dam, I sailed toward Luxor along the world’s
longest river and watched more than 4,000 years of civilization from a deck
chair. The Temple of Luxor; Karnak, with its Avenue of Rams; Dendera;
Abydos and The Valley of the Kings, where Tutankhamon is entombed. I saw
it all.
through the lock of the Esna Dam, I sailed toward Luxor along the world’s
longest river and watched more than 4,000 years of civilization from a deck
chair. The Temple of Luxor; Karnak, with its Avenue of Rams; Dendera;
Abydos and The Valley of the Kings, where Tutankhamon is entombed. I saw
it all.
Boarding
my riverboat for the last time, I realized that to visit Egypt–the gift of the
Nile–without sailing the world’s greatest outdoor museum, is to have made an
incomplete visit to the Land of the Pharaohs.
my riverboat for the last time, I realized that to visit Egypt–the gift of the
Nile–without sailing the world’s greatest outdoor museum, is to have made an
incomplete visit to the Land of the Pharaohs.
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| THE NILE RIVER IN CAIRO |
THE DUORO RIVER: a 30-minute drive from the
port at Leixoes, Portugal, brought me to Oporto, Portugal’s second largest
city. As I drove along the Avenida dos Aliados, enroute to the Duoro
River, I viewed some of the city’s most impressive buildings such as the 1915
train station, the 18th century Church of Clerigos, and the austere Se
Cathedral, a 12th-century Romanesque
building.
port at Leixoes, Portugal, brought me to Oporto, Portugal’s second largest
city. As I drove along the Avenida dos Aliados, enroute to the Duoro
River, I viewed some of the city’s most impressive buildings such as the 1915
train station, the 18th century Church of Clerigos, and the austere Se
Cathedral, a 12th-century Romanesque
building.
 |
| CRUISE BOAT DOCK IN OPORTO, PORTUGAL |
I
then headed down to the Ribeira quarter to enjoy a boat ride on the Douro River
(River of Gold). The water afforded a totally different panorama of Oporto’s
skyline. On the opposite bank from where I had boarded the boat, I
visited Vila Nova de Gaia, home to the port trade and numerous wine
lodges. Most of them were established in the 18th century; their brand-name
port wines are known worldwide.
then headed down to the Ribeira quarter to enjoy a boat ride on the Douro River
(River of Gold). The water afforded a totally different panorama of Oporto’s
skyline. On the opposite bank from where I had boarded the boat, I
visited Vila Nova de Gaia, home to the port trade and numerous wine
lodges. Most of them were established in the 18th century; their brand-name
port wines are known worldwide.
 |
| ONE OF THE MANY WINERIES ON THE BANKS OF THE DUORO |
My
Duoro river cruise culminated with a visit to W & J Graham’s Port
House with an “OPORTOnity” to learn the process of wine
making, and a tasting of their fine Port wines.
Duoro river cruise culminated with a visit to W & J Graham’s Port
House with an “OPORTOnity” to learn the process of wine
making, and a tasting of their fine Port wines.
Gliding
along the world’s river gems is a memorable experience. Do it…at least
once before you
die!
along the world’s river gems is a memorable experience. Do it…at least
once before you
die!
JANET
STEINBERG is an award-winning Travel Writer/Editor and an International Travel
Consultant with THE TRAVEL AUTHORITY in Mariemont, Ohio
STEINBERG is an award-winning Travel Writer/Editor and an International Travel
Consultant with THE TRAVEL AUTHORITY in Mariemont, Ohio