Bom Dia
(good morning) was my sunny greeting as I arrived at the Four Seasons Hotel
Ritz in Lisbon, Portugal. 

Four
Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon, long considered the city’s premier hotel, reflects
the nobility and charm of historic Portugal. 
It was there that I chose to spend the three days prior to my embarking
on Silversea’s Silver Whisper for a cruise that would sail me to such memorable
sites as the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain and the WW ll Normandy Landing
Beaches in France.

Situated atop one of Lisbon’s seven hills,
the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz provides a glorious bird’s eye view of Eduardo VII Park, St. George’s Moorish Castle
and the Tagus River.  It is the
perfect starting point for exploring the city’s unique architecture.  The interior of the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz
Lisbon showcases 18th-century replica
furnishings, an outstanding collection of contemporary Portuguese tapestries;
and paintings and sculpture that are examples of the city’s finest art.  It is truly a landmark establishment in all
senses of the word.  

Portugal’s
capital city, renowned for its indigenous pastel stone, is illuminated by the
extraordinary amount of light that is reflected off the massive expanse of the
Tagus River.  Little wonder that the
Tagus is said to be a large natural mirror that amplifies the aurora of the sun. It
has long been argued whether the Tagus River, a winding silver ribbon that
mirrors the city, ebbs up to meet the city–or whether Lisbon extends down to
meet the river.  Whatever the case, the
city’s seven hills, and the wide mouth of the Tagus, make Lisbon one of the
most charming cities in Europe.

Lisbon
(Lisboa), Portugal, a scenic, cosmopolitan city, is the cultural heart
and soul of Portugal.  The Lisbon Tourist
Board claims there are 92 palaces, 67 public gardens, 55 fountains, 44 arches/archways, and 51 museums in the city.  Among the best of those museums
are the CentrCultural de Belém, one of the greatest cultural centers in
Europe offering exhibits, performing arts, gardens, restaurants and shops. The Museu
Nacional de Arte Antiga was founded in 1884. It houses sculptures,
drawings, jewels, pottery, textiles, paintings and furniture from the 12th to
early 19th century.  The Museu da Marinha (Maritime Museum) is one
of the most important museums in all of Europe. It features over 17,000 items
of the sea and 1,500 ship drawings and plans. 
Another fine museum is the Museu do Centro de Arte Moderna, which
has a twentieth century art collection.

The
Torre de Belem (Belem Tower), built in the year 1521, looks like a
miniature castle on the banks of the Tagus River.  The influence of the Tagus, the river that
empties into the Atlantic Ocean, dates back in Lisbon’s history to the time
when the Greeks and Phoenicians set up trading posts at the mouth of the river. 

Gray
Line’s hop-on hop-off bus is a great way to see Lisbon.  Gray Line’s bus tours in Lisbon will take you
to such attractions as Praca do Comercio (Black Horse Square); Sao
Jorge Castle, with its panoramic views of the city; Edward VII Park; the
Cathedral, with its Arab mosque design; the Chiado area’s outdoor elevator
designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame; the Torre de Belem (Tower
of Belem) and the Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Monument to Prince Henry
the Navigator).

Lisbon
is known for its hearty, reasonably priced Portuguese cuisine.  Fresh seafood is a staple of the Portuguese
diet.  Regional specialties include:
grilled sardines, seafood stew called caldeirada, and a hearty soup of
spicy sausage and potatoes known as caldo verde.  

Varanda
Restaurant, in the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon, overlooks Eduardo VII Park and the hotel’s
terraces. It features a buffet renowned for its variety, while in the evening caldeiradas
and cataplana are amongst the rich variety of authentic and diverse
Portuguese dishes on the menu.

Largo Restaurant, in Lisbon’s sophisticated
Chiado district, is located in an old cloister near the Lisbon Opera
House.  In addition to its evocative
décor, Largo’s eclectic menu offerings please the eyes as well as the taste
buds.  For a traditional Portuguese
treat, from a secret monastery recipe, head to Pastéis de Belém bakery for one
of their custard tarts straight out of the oven.

Following
any dinner in Lisbon, one should experience the melancholy fado, the
national song of Portugal, at a fado club. 
Fado, a dialogue of emotions between a round Portuguese guitar
and a sad voice, is a singing expression of the state of the soul.  The word fado–from the Latin fatum–signifies
prophecy or fate: a life commended by the oracle, one that nothing can change.

If
you have more than one day in Lisbon, get out of town.  Gray Line offers a delightful day trip to
Sintra, the fairytale town of castles and palaces, where Portuguese royalty
spent their summers.   Because of its 19th
century Romantic architecture, Sintra was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in
1995.

We headed
out in the direction of the majestic and romantic Pena Palace, situated on a
high mountain peak. The Palace is an eclectic mixture of styles.

We
continued on to Sintra where we stopped for lunch and free time in the village,
abounding in antique shops, handicraft shops, restaurants, and tea-rooms. Don’t
miss tasting the deliciously well-known tarts called “Queijadas.”
 Our next stop was Colares, a region famous for its table wines. Then
it was on to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in Europe. Driving along the
beaches of Guincho, we saw the beautiful Boca do Inferno, all the while
enjoying the gorgeous ocean scenery. In Cascais we had a colorful glimpse of
this traditional fishing town. 

 We returned
to Lisbon via the Estoril Coast, finishing with a panoramic view of the
turn-of-the-century luxury resort of Estoril with its renowned casino and
gardens.

On
the following day, as we sailed from Lisbon on Silversea’s Silver Whisper, we
got a second chance to marvel at Lisbon’s waterfront as the ship sailed along
the Tagus River to the Atlantic Ocean.

JANET
STEINBERG is the winner of 38 national Travel Writer Awards and
an International Travel Consultant with The Travel Authority in Mariemont,
Ohio.