BY JANET STEINBERG
Life is what you live
‘til the moment you die…
This is how the time goes by.”
Zorba the Greek
Kalimera
(kal-ee-meh-ra). (Good morning).
Welcome to Athens, Greece.
(kal-ee-meh-ra). (Good morning).
Welcome to Athens, Greece.
If
you are cruising from the port of Athens (Piraeus), it’s a good idea to arrive
several days before sailing to allow time to explore this foremost city of the
classical age. And, it’s an equally good
idea, to base yourself at the Hotel Grande Bretagne, the “Royal Box of
Athens”.
you are cruising from the port of Athens (Piraeus), it’s a good idea to arrive
several days before sailing to allow time to explore this foremost city of the
classical age. And, it’s an equally good
idea, to base yourself at the Hotel Grande Bretagne, the “Royal Box of
Athens”.
Deriving
that name because of its commanding position on Constitution Square, the
legendary Grand Bretagne Hotel is also known as “the Grande Dame of Athens”, or
more intimately, the “G.B.”
that name because of its commanding position on Constitution Square, the
legendary Grand Bretagne Hotel is also known as “the Grande Dame of Athens”, or
more intimately, the “G.B.”
The
legend of the G.B. began in the mid 1800’s when King George I of the Hellenes,
the longest reigning Monarch in Greece, had his summer palace in what was then
a rural area of Athens. During that
period, many members of the royal families of Europe were frequently, and
lavishly, entertained by the King.
legend of the G.B. began in the mid 1800’s when King George I of the Hellenes,
the longest reigning Monarch in Greece, had his summer palace in what was then
a rural area of Athens. During that
period, many members of the royal families of Europe were frequently, and
lavishly, entertained by the King.
The
Grande Bretagne was built in 1862 by the Danish architect Theophile
Hanson. This elegant, and spacious,
60-room mansion was assigned to be the Royal Palace’s guest house for foreign
royalty and heads of state visiting Athens.
Grande Bretagne was built in 1862 by the Danish architect Theophile
Hanson. This elegant, and spacious,
60-room mansion was assigned to be the Royal Palace’s guest house for foreign
royalty and heads of state visiting Athens.
 |
| HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE |
The
man selected to serve these royal guests was Eustace Lampsa, favorite chef of
many of the crowned heads. In 1872, the
exceptionally competent Lampsa bought the building and turned it into a hotel. Lampsa named his new hotel Great Britain
after the world’s then-dominant nation.
However, influenced by his French wife, he so named it in French: Grande
Bretagne.
man selected to serve these royal guests was Eustace Lampsa, favorite chef of
many of the crowned heads. In 1872, the
exceptionally competent Lampsa bought the building and turned it into a hotel. Lampsa named his new hotel Great Britain
after the world’s then-dominant nation.
However, influenced by his French wife, he so named it in French: Grande
Bretagne.
“The
luxury that prevails,” wrote a guest traveler when the hotel opened its
doors in 1874, “is worthy of special mention.” Such hotels are adornments to a city. Who could imagine that Athens, which is going
through the first stages of its life after so many years of servitude, would
have hotels capable of receiving kings and princes?”
luxury that prevails,” wrote a guest traveler when the hotel opened its
doors in 1874, “is worthy of special mention.” Such hotels are adornments to a city. Who could imagine that Athens, which is going
through the first stages of its life after so many years of servitude, would
have hotels capable of receiving kings and princes?”
Now,
well over a century later, the traditional setting of luxury still prevails at
the G.B. It is still one of the Grand
Dames of Europe’s deluxe historical hostelries, to
acclimate yourself to this bustling city, set amid magnificent monuments to her
long and glorious past, begin with a tour of the
ancient ruins scattered throughout this legendary city.
well over a century later, the traditional setting of luxury still prevails at
the G.B. It is still one of the Grand
Dames of Europe’s deluxe historical hostelries, to
acclimate yourself to this bustling city, set amid magnificent monuments to her
long and glorious past, begin with a tour of the
ancient ruins scattered throughout this legendary city.
Driving
through the city, you’ll also pass the Parliament Building where
mini-skirted Evzones (presidential guards) stand guard at the Tomb of
the Unknown Soldier. You’ll also
glimpse the National Gardens, the Arch of Hadrian, and the Temple
of Zeus.
through the city, you’ll also pass the Parliament Building where
mini-skirted Evzones (presidential guards) stand guard at the Tomb of
the Unknown Soldier. You’ll also
glimpse the National Gardens, the Arch of Hadrian, and the Temple
of Zeus.
 |
|
EVZONES PARADE AT TOMB OF
UNKNOWN SOLDIER |
A
tour will certainly take you to the Acropolis where you will climb from
the base up the pathway and steps, through the impressive Propylaea and
onto the lofty Acropolis itself. Wear
comfortable shoes! At the site of the
great Parthenon, the Erechtheum and the Temple of Wingless
Victory, you will relive the Golden Age of Greece.
tour will certainly take you to the Acropolis where you will climb from
the base up the pathway and steps, through the impressive Propylaea and
onto the lofty Acropolis itself. Wear
comfortable shoes! At the site of the
great Parthenon, the Erechtheum and the Temple of Wingless
Victory, you will relive the Golden Age of Greece.
Although
the above-mentioned sites remain basically the same as they were ions ago,
they…like the city itself…have had a facelift since my last visit (pre-2004
Summer Olympics). Storied monuments have
been cleaned; once somber buildings now wear colorful facades; sidewalks and
roads are in great shape; public squares and pocket parks abound with flowers
and verdant shrubbery.
the above-mentioned sites remain basically the same as they were ions ago,
they…like the city itself…have had a facelift since my last visit (pre-2004
Summer Olympics). Storied monuments have
been cleaned; once somber buildings now wear colorful facades; sidewalks and
roads are in great shape; public squares and pocket parks abound with flowers
and verdant shrubbery.
Wander
through the Stadium and feel the sweat, the pulse, the heartbeat, and
the thrills of the 21st century runner, as he completes his 26-mile
dash from the town of Marathon to the Stadium in Athens. Stroll through the ancient Agora, the
marketplace and center of everyday life in the Classical and Hellenistic
periods.
through the Stadium and feel the sweat, the pulse, the heartbeat, and
the thrills of the 21st century runner, as he completes his 26-mile
dash from the town of Marathon to the Stadium in Athens. Stroll through the ancient Agora, the
marketplace and center of everyday life in the Classical and Hellenistic
periods.
For a
real taste of 21st –century Greek market life, check out the Central
Market (Kentriki Agora) that abounds with Greek delicacies of every
sort. At the Monastiraki Flea Market you might pick up some pure
24-carat junque (aka junk).
real taste of 21st –century Greek market life, check out the Central
Market (Kentriki Agora) that abounds with Greek delicacies of every
sort. At the Monastiraki Flea Market you might pick up some pure
24-carat junque (aka junk).
Markets
aside, Athens does have some superb shopping.
Check out Zolotas and Lalaounis for gold jewelry
with the obvious influence of Greece’s rich cultural heritage. Both jewelry shops are located on
Panepistimiou Street behind the Grande Bretagne, and both are purveyors of
exquisite, expensive, jewelry.
aside, Athens does have some superb shopping.
Check out Zolotas and Lalaounis for gold jewelry
with the obvious influence of Greece’s rich cultural heritage. Both jewelry shops are located on
Panepistimiou Street behind the Grande Bretagne, and both are purveyors of
exquisite, expensive, jewelry.
Hip
Greek fashions, by creative Greek designers, can be found at shops bearing the
designers’ own names…such as Boutique Kostetsos, Ellina Lembessi, and Lakis
Gavalas.
Greek fashions, by creative Greek designers, can be found at shops bearing the
designers’ own names…such as Boutique Kostetsos, Ellina Lembessi, and Lakis
Gavalas.
Be sure
to leave time to wander the winding ways of the historic old Plaka,
stopping at a tavern for dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), moussaka
(eggplant casserole) and horiatiki (the Greek peasant’s salad).
to leave time to wander the winding ways of the historic old Plaka,
stopping at a tavern for dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), moussaka
(eggplant casserole) and horiatiki (the Greek peasant’s salad).
 |
| THE HISTORIC OLD PLAKA |
When
your time in Athens, the cradle of culture and of Western democracy, comes to a
close, you can bid farewell to Athens by saying Kali adamossi. (Until we meet again.)
your time in Athens, the cradle of culture and of Western democracy, comes to a
close, you can bid farewell to Athens by saying Kali adamossi. (Until we meet again.)
JANET STEINBERG is an
award-winning Travel Writer and a Travel Consultant with THE TRAVEL AUTHORITY
in Mariemont, Ohio.
award-winning Travel Writer and a Travel Consultant with THE TRAVEL AUTHORITY
in Mariemont, Ohio.